This section of the trip, from north of Desolation Sound to the west end of Johnstone Strait, is taking a longer time than during my two previous years’ through here. We made it nicely through Yuculta Rapids, Gillard Passage and Dent Rapids, despite it being a largeish spring tide. But after those challenges we figured we might not make it in time to safely transit the next two rapids at or near the slack current. So why not drop down Nodales Channel to Thurston Bay “Parc Marin” and take a lazy break for the whole afternoon.
Next morning I can’t remember what excuse we used for not trying to make the morning turns at the rapids but instead we woke late and rowed to shore to explore a muddy creek outlet at low tide. We found a stand of abandoned apple trees, some bear tracks and a midden of human artifacts from maybe the early to mid 20th century. Look for the sole of a toddler’s shoes among the broken pottery and bottles in the photo above. Wonder what the story was of this bygone settlement?
Then we slowly cruised towards Shoal Bay, visiting with Mark the owner of the place there. Checked out their garden, and their outdoor wood-fired oven. Way cool place.
Next to Blind Channel resort with just enough time for fuel and some grocery purchases. Was able to crab (sliding sideways)up into Greene Point rapids against the flood tide but then we couldn’t quite get to Whirlpool rapids in time (or so we told ourselves). Instead we went up Lochborough Inlet to Sidney Bay. Came upon a sturdy but rustic wood float that had a library in a dinghy.
Well, being too lazy to row across the bay to pay the moorage fee to stay we opted to anchor out instead. Its a sweet little cove. While anchoring Karen got a little lazy with the lever on the anchor windlass (Bad Windlassie!) and it taught her a lesson by splitting her lip. Poor kid, she says it doesn’t hurt but I’m pretty sure she would have got a few stitches in town. But we’re too lazy to call a Coast Guard mission to evacuate her so she’ll get a little scar instead. After a few days I plan to start calling her Scarface, maybe she’d like a cool nickname like that.
Next day after Whirlpool Rapids we tried to head down Sunderland Channel to Johnstone Strait where it would have been a run of at least another 5 or 10 miles into a sheltered side bay. But the wind kept building until we had about 25 knots with 3-4’ steep chop due to wind on ebb current action. And the forecast called for gale winds of 30-40. So, being too lazy to sail in such conditions we turned around, flew out the staysail and went back to Forward Harbour like a dog with its tail between its legs. On the way in we noted an example of extreme laziness, off to one side was a wrecked powerboat of some size laying on its side, sunk in about 6’ of water at low tide, its green mossy cabin giving it a dread appearance. Eventually we joined about a dozen other lazy boaters anchored while waiting for the gale in the Strait to blow itself out.
We don’t mind these delays very much. Turns out we enjoy being lazy, this afternoon we strolled along the barnacly beach and read books and took safety naps. I keep asking Karen, “Is this more or less what you had in mind?” She keeps saying yes.